TikTok is full of trends and “miracle” fixes that you may want to think twice about trying (at the very least), and best to avoid altogether. Things like rubbing jalapeños on your eyes to cure styes? 😳 Uhm, I'll pass!
Every day, it feels like there’s a trendy new skin care ingredient that vows to transform your skin in miraculous ways.
Forget the hype and listen to the facts. The following is a list of some of the most promising ingredients in our skincare products for 2023.
🔹 Vitamin C
Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can be used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoaging. It can also be used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation. However, choose a product with one of these forms of stable Vitamin C. Otherwise, you will be throwing money away.
*Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP)
*Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
*Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
*Tetrahexyldecyl (THD) Ascorbate
By the way, packaging matters! Vitamin C is notoriously prone to oxidizing. It can break down over time when it's exposed to light or air. To ensure the ingredient remains stable it is important that your product is packaged in opaque, light-blocking, air-restrictive glass bottles, or pump glass containers.
The Benefits:
- Brightens a dull complexion
- Helps erase sun spots
- Potent topical antioxidant by neutralizing free radical damage
- Protects against UV light and other environmental aggressors
- Helps with tightening and elasticity of skin
Try Beautycounter’s All Bright C-Serum here or Eight Saint’s Seeking C Serum and Cloud Whip C Cream both found here at Earth Joy Beauty
🔹 Peptides
Peptides are amino acids that make up certain proteins needed by the skin. More specifically, collagen is made of three polypeptide chains, so adding peptides can stimulate your skin to make collagen. More collagen can lead to firmer, younger-looking skin. Keep in mind, you’ll want to choose a product like a serum or a moisturizer that has prolonged contact with your skin.
The Benefits:
- Improves skin barrier
- Reduces wrinkles
- Eases inflammation
- Promotes elastin fibers
- Can help clear breakouts
🔹 Jojoba Oil
Long used by Native Americans for its many benefits, Jojoba Oil is produced from the seed of the Jojoba plant, a shrubby tree that is native to southern Arizona and California.
The Benefits:
- Deep and long-lasting hydration
- Full of nutrients like Vitamin E and B, as well as antioxidants and minerals like chromium, copper, and zinc
- Anti-aging and non-comedogenic
- Sooths dry and sun-burned skin
- Anti-microbial, gentle and non-allergenic
🔹 Grapeseed Oil
Grapeseed oil comes from the pressed seeds of grapes. The oil is a by-product of the process of making wine. It contains linoleic acid and vitamin E, which help skin retain moisture while restoring elasticity and protecting it from environmental damage. It can help make skin softer and more elastic
The Benefits:
- Anti-inflammatory
- Anti-microbial
- Evens out skin tone
- Protects from sun damage
High Society Facial Oil by Eight Saints contain both jojoba and grapeseed oil, (along with other natural oils), and is a fan favorite at Earth Joy Beauty.
🔹 Niacinamide
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B-3. This essential nutrient helps build proteins in the skin and offers protection against environmental damage. It works with your skin's natural chemistry to improve overall skin texture by rebuilding a lipid layer, minimizing the appearance of pores, and preventing UV damage and inflammation as an antioxidant.
The Benefits:
- Minimizes pores and redness
- Regulates oil
- Evens out skin tone and discolorations
- Prevents moisture loss
- Protects against environmental damage
You can find Eight Saint’s Up The Anti Night Cream here at Earth Joy Beauty. This is an amazing cream that contains niacinamides, hyaluronic acid and peptides to treat skin overnight during its natural renewal cycle.
🔹 MSM
Methyl-Sulfonyl-Methane (MSM) is a rich, natural source of organic sulfur – a mineral that has many applications and benefits in skin and hair care. Environmental Working Group gives MSM a safety score of “1” on a scale of 0-10. The lower, the better!
The Benefits:
- Helps maintain and replenish collagen
- Keeps skin smooth, supple and bright
- Helps treat skin conditions such as: dry skin, wrinkles and blemishes
- Boosts collagen and elastin
- Has anti-inflammatory properties
- Reported to help with acne and its aftermath
- Hydrates, smooths and brightens the skin
A great product to try is Eight Saint’s All In Eye Cream, which highlights MSM.
🔹 CBD
Studies are mostly anecdotal and limited to smaller groups of participants, but enough to further more studies with larger participating audiences. Keep this one on your back burner!
Reported Benefits:
- Reduces breakouts
- Reduces inflammation
- Regulates oil production
- Hydrates skin
- Reported to help with psoriasis symptoms
🔹 Hyaluronic Acid
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring molecule found in practically every fluid or tissue in our bodies. It acts as a cushion for our joints, nerves, and skin, but it's mainly known for its skin-related benefits. In fact, almost 50% of the HA in our bodies is found in our skin! As we age though, this concentration decreases substantially. Fortunately, there have been numerous independent studies that agree about the positive effects of HA in skincare.
The Benefits:
- Binds moisture to the skin
- Reduces the appearance of wrinkles
- Plumps and smooths skin
- Acts as a lipid barrier
- Stimulates skin cell regeneration
- Helps tighten skin tone
🔹 Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol is derived from the seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, also known as the babchi plant, and has been used in Ayurveda and Eastern medicine for centuries. It is a great plant-derived alternative if you have sensitive skin, or simply don’t like the potential dangers of retinol. Studies have shown that it is generally less irritating, and may carry a lower risk of side effects like redness or flaking.
The Benefits:
- Promotes healthy skin aging
- Reduces the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines
- Treats hyperpigmentation
- Helps soothe and heal skin
- Gentler on sensitive skin
- Can help with cell turnover
Check out Beautycounter’s Countertime line, formulated with Bakuchiol, right here!
🔹 Probiotics
Probiotic skin care involves using products that contain live microorganisms to improve the health of the skin. The idea behind this is that it helps maintain a beneficial balance of microbes, helping to reduce the symptoms of certain skin conditions. The jury is not out yet because a lot of the claims seem to be anecdotal.
You should check with your dermatologist before starting this form of treatment.
Reported Benefits:
- Reduces inflammation
- Prevents dry skin
- Aids in keeping skin in balance
- Reduces redness
🔹 Rosehip Seed Oil
Contains vitamins A & C, which are useful in evening out skin tone and promoting cell regeneration for a more radiant, brighter look. This oil also contains essential fatty acids, which help with cell regeneration. Lightweight and easily absorbed, (therefore often referred to as a “dry oil”), Rosehip Seed Oil is ideal for ALL skin types.
The Benefits:
- May help reduce acne
- Calms inflammation
- Promotes softer, more supple skin
- Promotes a brighter, more radiant complexion
- Boosts skin with a dose of vitamin C
- Helps diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Helps diminish the appearance of scars and stretch marks
🔹 Kaolin Clay
Kaolin, also known as white clay or china clay, is a soft clay that has been used for centuries. It is widely used in skin care products, particularly in face masks. Kaolin is also thought to be the mildest, most gentle clay used in skin care today.
The Benefits:
- Cleanses and detoxifies
- Excellent exfoliator
- Gentle for sensitive skin
- Can help fight breakouts
- Balances hydration
- Can help improve skin elasticity and firmness
On a personal note, I have sensitive skin that does not tolerate most scrubs very well. I use Eight Saint’s No Plans Desert Rose Kaolin Clay Mask as my go-to exfoliator with absolutely no adverse issues.
🔹 Caffeine
Caffeine is a vasoconstrictor, meaning it makes your blood vessels smaller and tighter, says Jeffrey Hsu, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and the codirector of Oak Dermatology in Chicago.
“When used in skin care, caffeine reduces blood flow to the skin and makes it look brighter and tighter,” Dr. Hsu says. “It’s often seen as an anti-aging or wrinkle-smoothing ingredient in face care, eye care, and even body care.” If you have sensitive skin or a caffeine sensitivity, you may want to get started by testing out this ingredient in small doses on a limited part of your skin.
Reported Benefits:
- Fast acting
- Protective against oxidative stress and inflammation
- Protects against sun-damage
- Gives skin a fresh, taut appearance, although temporary
Hopefully this list will give you some (skin) food-for-thought! There is an enormous amount of dermatological research happening currently. So naturally, with these studies comes the emergence of wonderful new ingredients to help us feel good about our skin care. Just remember that not EVERY ingredient is for EVERYONE.
For the wrap, here is some sound advice from columnist BethAnn Mayer at The Manual: “Skincare brands claim ingredients can do everything from keeping your skin soft to banishing acne and wrinkles. Though there’s some science to support these claims, it’s important to remember that there’s no “cure” for many conditions and facts of life, including aging. To ensure an ingredient or product is right for you, especially if you have sensitive skin, conduct a patch test first by applying a new product to a small area of the skin for several days. If no irritation is present, continue use. Discontinue use if you experience any irritation. A dermatologist can help you find the best products for your skin type and condition. Always consult with one before adding a new product to your regimen if you are on prescription medication or topical agents. They could negatively interact with one another.” Better safe than sorry, as it goes.
Joy to you ❣
– Lucy
Refresh the body and brighten the spirit. Visit my store for mindful, non-toxic skin care and cosmetics.